This third kubaspassages travel blog entry is dedicated to a trip to Paris that my partner Ignacio and I made in November 2014. During that trip we followed diaries of Ignacy Domeyko. In his masterpiece My journeys, Diaries in Exile, newly arrived into Paris, Domeyko is sharing with us fascinating experiences he had in the city he called a centre and capital of a higher civilisation. His memories served us as an exceptional travel guide. We visited places, which Domeyko visited 183 years before. I allowed myself to translate some of his observations into English.
Ignacy Domeyko (1802 - 1889) is famous for his achievements in mineralogy, education and respected for his modest approach to life. He participated in educational projects that focused on the sustainable development of people and industry and sought the inclusivity and protection of indigenous communities. A citizen of the world, Domeyko was born in Niedźwiadka Wielka within the Russian partition of the former Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and lived most of his life in his adopted Chile.
Mapping Domeyko is a project that Ignacio and I have been developing over last year. The project explores of mobility and citizenship by looking at Domeyko's global movements and reflecting on his blurred national identity between Chile, Lithuania and Poland. As part of the project we are giving lecture at Environment on the Move Conference at University of Durham, 9-10th July.
Mapping Domeyko is a project that Ignacio and I have been developing over last year. The project explores of mobility and citizenship by looking at Domeyko's global movements and reflecting on his blurred national identity between Chile, Lithuania and Poland. As part of the project we are giving lecture at Environment on the Move Conference at University of Durham, 9-10th July.
PARIS MAP
The head image shows Mont Blanc on the wall painting, a part of decoration at the entrance to Musée de Minéralogie in Paris at formerly École des Mines where Ignacy Domeyko studied mineralogy before leaving for Chile. This will be a key site for us to visit during our trip to Paris.
We will start from Hotel du Metz where Domeyko stayed during his very first days in Paris, followed by famous Jardin de Tuileries, then a stroll around Place de Concorde and Place Vendôme, where will be seeing Vendôme column. Église de la Madeleine will conclude the tour around the north from river Seine. We will then progress onto Hôtel des Invalides. The pre ultimate destination will be École des Mines followed by Biblioteque Polonaise where Domeyko did not set his foot on but many traces of Domeyko can now be found there.
We will start from Hotel du Metz where Domeyko stayed during his very first days in Paris, followed by famous Jardin de Tuileries, then a stroll around Place de Concorde and Place Vendôme, where will be seeing Vendôme column. Église de la Madeleine will conclude the tour around the north from river Seine. We will then progress onto Hôtel des Invalides. The pre ultimate destination will be École des Mines followed by Biblioteque Polonaise where Domeyko did not set his foot on but many traces of Domeyko can now be found there.
In the map above I have introduced Paris' key rail stations for orientation purposes. However, the key aim of the map is to manifest sites visited by Domeyko in 1832 and subsequently seen by us in 2014.
HOTEL DU METZ
Domeyko arrived to Paris on 31st July 1832. He travelled with Adam Mickiewicz, the most important Polish poet. They came to Paris after unsuccessful November Uprising in Poland (Powstanie Listopadowe).
On his arrival to Paris Domeyko wrote: I'm in Paris: in the city, which since my university years I eagerly wanted to set my foot on, imagining it as freedom hub, centre and capital of a higher civilization, where so many revolutions broke out, a multitude of the greatest people and inducements have grown for the pride and passion of a human.
So this is how I imagined Paris, when our malle-poste stopped at Rue du Mail, Hotel du Metz. We got out while it was still a night time. But barely I dozed off, woke up to the city street noise and the rumble of vehicles. It came to my mind a French poem: Paris, ville de bruit (Paris, city of noise).
On his arrival to Paris Domeyko wrote: I'm in Paris: in the city, which since my university years I eagerly wanted to set my foot on, imagining it as freedom hub, centre and capital of a higher civilization, where so many revolutions broke out, a multitude of the greatest people and inducements have grown for the pride and passion of a human.
So this is how I imagined Paris, when our malle-poste stopped at Rue du Mail, Hotel du Metz. We got out while it was still a night time. But barely I dozed off, woke up to the city street noise and the rumble of vehicles. It came to my mind a French poem: Paris, ville de bruit (Paris, city of noise).
Coincidentally, in the Eurostar magazine, a review of a restaurant at Rue de Mail was featured. Where the restaurant now exists, Domeyko stayed during his first days in Paris. Hotel du Metz was an obvious lodge for new arrivals to Paris who travelled with the post in a horse drawn mail coach. This is how Domeyko together with Mickiewicz made to Paris from Chalôns-sur-mare in Champagne. In early XIXc railways had not yet been invented. Furthermore, this mode of transport was recommended to them as the mail was rarely stopped at the entry to the city. They had no right to go to Paris. Earlier on, at the border with Prussia their passports had been stamped by French authorities with a note: Défense de se render à Paris sous quelque pretexte que ce soit (It is not permitted to leave for Paris under any circumstances).
JARDIN DES TUILERIES
At first, Domeyko did not seem to be very impressed with Paris. Like many other Poles living within the Russian partition of the former Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, he was dreaming about Paris, city of freedom. He must had heard many stories and descriptions about Paris before arriving here. Yet, initially he was disappointed with the city which appeared to him to too loud, too dusty and unfriendly.
Great Tuiliers Garden - which our fellow travellers tell miracles about did not satisfied my curiosity. Trees covered with dust and snowstorm; flowers fenced with iron bars; blackened statues. Among the status there is one, newly arrived, white, made of beautiful marble which caught my eye for a moment. It was Spartacus, breaking its chains, and still adapting to its new environment, anxious as if he feared for his freedom.
Spartacus was the sparkle of hope and better future for Domeyko. Through his broken chains it symbolised liberation from the oppression. In standing alone Spartacus, Domeyko could share his feelings of solitude and simultaneously tranquility in this busy city he had just stepped in to.
The statue of Spartacus had since been moved to the Musée de Luvre. Instead of looking for Spartacus, we set off to look for a similar figure in Jardin des Tuileries. With a bit of luck, after an hour of running around and looking for marble figures scatter around Jardins, I recognised a figure that have had appearance of Spartacus, a statue of Cincinnatus - erected by the same scuptor, Denis Fayatier.
Cincinnatus was an aristocrat and statesman in the early Rome who saved his city from crisis. He successfully brought to end a conflict with Italic tribe Aequi in 458 BC and then resigned, which has been regarded as a symbol of modesty and civic virtue. It was in honour of Cincinnatus, the city of Cincinnati in Ohio carries his name.
Perhaps there are some similarities between Cincinnatus and Domeyko. After participating fighting for independence of Poland, Domeyko proved to be best to serve his country through his commitment to education, focused on supporting his nation from abroad through sharing knowledge with home universities in Kraków and Warsaw. Not only he proved to be very charitable person, he was focused on sustainable development of industry and aspired towards inclusivity and integration. In honour of Domeyko, a range of mountains in Chilean Andes is called Cordillera de Domeyko.
Cincinnatus could not draw Domeyko's attention because it was 1832 when he had visited Tuileries and the statue was raised in 1836. But if the sculpture of Spartacus, which as Domeyko saw as a newly erected figure had not been moved to Luvre, it would have looked today like Cincinnatus, greyed out and with the footprint of its natural habitat like a bird poo.
The statue of Spartacus had since been moved to the Musée de Luvre. Instead of looking for Spartacus, we set off to look for a similar figure in Jardin des Tuileries. With a bit of luck, after an hour of running around and looking for marble figures scatter around Jardins, I recognised a figure that have had appearance of Spartacus, a statue of Cincinnatus - erected by the same scuptor, Denis Fayatier.
Cincinnatus was an aristocrat and statesman in the early Rome who saved his city from crisis. He successfully brought to end a conflict with Italic tribe Aequi in 458 BC and then resigned, which has been regarded as a symbol of modesty and civic virtue. It was in honour of Cincinnatus, the city of Cincinnati in Ohio carries his name.
Perhaps there are some similarities between Cincinnatus and Domeyko. After participating fighting for independence of Poland, Domeyko proved to be best to serve his country through his commitment to education, focused on supporting his nation from abroad through sharing knowledge with home universities in Kraków and Warsaw. Not only he proved to be very charitable person, he was focused on sustainable development of industry and aspired towards inclusivity and integration. In honour of Domeyko, a range of mountains in Chilean Andes is called Cordillera de Domeyko.
Cincinnatus could not draw Domeyko's attention because it was 1832 when he had visited Tuileries and the statue was raised in 1836. But if the sculpture of Spartacus, which as Domeyko saw as a newly erected figure had not been moved to Luvre, it would have looked today like Cincinnatus, greyed out and with the footprint of its natural habitat like a bird poo.
COLONNE VENDÔME
Located north from Jardin des Tuileries is Place Vendôme. Many famous people lived here including Fredrick Chopin. Domeyko was not a friend of Chopin but they might had known each other as they were both part of the Polish emigration in Paris. He might had also attended one of concerts that Chopin played before completely devoting himself to the composing.
At the time, Domeyko visited the Column Vendôme, there had been no statue as its original Napoleon was taken down in 1814 during the restoration of Bourbons - this is when brother of beheaded Louis XVI gained the power after the fall of Napoleon Bonaparte.
There was no statue of Napoleon, which was thrown by the allies when they entered Paris, although it was not dared to take the column down, which was made of bronze that had belonged to them and was melted from their cannons taken away in a battle.
Here Domeyko refers to the 1805 Battle of Austerlitz when Napoleon defeated the allied army of Russia and Austria. The bronze used to raise the Vendome column came from cannons that had belonged to the defeated armies. Same armies came back in 1815 and fought back Napoleon in a famous Battle of Waterloo - this is when the statue of Bonaparte was removed.
The second statue of Napoleon was installed in 1833. Subsequently, in 1863 it was replaced by a new statue, which depicts Napoleon Bonaparte as a Roman emperor. Eight years later, the statue was removed by Paris Commune which regarded the column as a symbol of brutal power and false glory. Subsequently, two years after Paris Commune was overthrown, the statue was restored and in this form it has been there till now.
The history of Colonne Vendôme indicatively illustrates the history of XIX century France and follows swiftly changing powers. The images that capture these dynamics were taken on our visit to Place Vendôme in 2014. They were installed on the scaffolding that surrounded the column. This restoration we witnessed, was financed by Ritz Hotel. The column has become yet another symbol of power - wealth - being surrounded by luxury hotels, jewellers and expensive residencies.
At the time, Domeyko visited the Column Vendôme, there had been no statue as its original Napoleon was taken down in 1814 during the restoration of Bourbons - this is when brother of beheaded Louis XVI gained the power after the fall of Napoleon Bonaparte.
There was no statue of Napoleon, which was thrown by the allies when they entered Paris, although it was not dared to take the column down, which was made of bronze that had belonged to them and was melted from their cannons taken away in a battle.
Here Domeyko refers to the 1805 Battle of Austerlitz when Napoleon defeated the allied army of Russia and Austria. The bronze used to raise the Vendome column came from cannons that had belonged to the defeated armies. Same armies came back in 1815 and fought back Napoleon in a famous Battle of Waterloo - this is when the statue of Bonaparte was removed.
The second statue of Napoleon was installed in 1833. Subsequently, in 1863 it was replaced by a new statue, which depicts Napoleon Bonaparte as a Roman emperor. Eight years later, the statue was removed by Paris Commune which regarded the column as a symbol of brutal power and false glory. Subsequently, two years after Paris Commune was overthrown, the statue was restored and in this form it has been there till now.
The history of Colonne Vendôme indicatively illustrates the history of XIX century France and follows swiftly changing powers. The images that capture these dynamics were taken on our visit to Place Vendôme in 2014. They were installed on the scaffolding that surrounded the column. This restoration we witnessed, was financed by Ritz Hotel. The column has become yet another symbol of power - wealth - being surrounded by luxury hotels, jewellers and expensive residencies.
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE
A bit further, just beyond the Tuileries Garden, we walked into a specious square, without a doubt, the most beautiful part of Paris - an open square, vast, from which you can see chief monuments; royal castle, cathedral towers, national palace , Arc de l'Etoile and the Church of the Holy Magdalene. At the center of this square was beheaded the last king of Capetian family, and perhaps the last of the Catholic kings, because all later kings were not ruling 'by the grace of God'; instead they were conspirators looking for foreign princes and soldiers. Thrice, the name of the square was changed and thrice they changed the monument, which was built and rebuilt on this square: it was once called the Place de la Révolution, Place Louis XVI and now Place de la Concorde. Who knows how they are going to name it in 100 years...
Despite Domeyko's prediction, the name of the square has not changed since that time - it is still called Place de la Concorde. However, one of the key elements of today's square, Luxor Obelix was not there.
Decorated with hieroglyphs dating back 3300 years the Obelix was given by Egiptian government. It arrived to Paris in 1833, one year after Domeyko's first visit to the Place de la Concorde.
Apart from rather unpleasant car traffic, one more piece of the landscape is different now when compared with what Domeyko saw in 1832 - the view for Eiffel Tower (erected 57 years later), which can be transparently seen even on a cloudy day like the one we experienced.
Domeyko was fascinated by the dynamically changing political scene in France. He had his personal interest in French politics and was able to make his own judgement about the power in France. In his diary he referred to king Louis XVI who was beheaded by the guillotine on Place de la Concorde (Place de la Révolution at the time). Domeyko sympathised with Louis XVI unlike the current king Louis-Philippe described by Domeyko as someone in favour of foreign wealth instead of being focused on his own people. .
Despite Domeyko's prediction, the name of the square has not changed since that time - it is still called Place de la Concorde. However, one of the key elements of today's square, Luxor Obelix was not there.
Decorated with hieroglyphs dating back 3300 years the Obelix was given by Egiptian government. It arrived to Paris in 1833, one year after Domeyko's first visit to the Place de la Concorde.
Apart from rather unpleasant car traffic, one more piece of the landscape is different now when compared with what Domeyko saw in 1832 - the view for Eiffel Tower (erected 57 years later), which can be transparently seen even on a cloudy day like the one we experienced.
Domeyko was fascinated by the dynamically changing political scene in France. He had his personal interest in French politics and was able to make his own judgement about the power in France. In his diary he referred to king Louis XVI who was beheaded by the guillotine on Place de la Concorde (Place de la Révolution at the time). Domeyko sympathised with Louis XVI unlike the current king Louis-Philippe described by Domeyko as someone in favour of foreign wealth instead of being focused on his own people. .
ÉGLISE DE LA MADELEINE
The church of the Holy Magdalene is an eminent Neo-Classical building with 52 Corinthian columns inspired by Roman temples. Its central location between Place de Concorde and Opera makes it an unmissable spot for every visitor in Paris, including Domeyko:
I stopped at still unfinished Église de la Madeleine, by the Parisians plainly called La Madeleine. It is a large building in a Greek pagan architecture with neither towers nor the cross, and with triangle pediment supported by Corinthian columns, reminiscent of an exchange or museum rather than a church.
Domeyko's religious and very traditional upbringing did not allow him to accept the modern look of the Christian church. He also criticised the name of the church, Magdalene the sinner he called. Nevertheless, he then appreciates that a church had actually been built during increasingly faithless times in France: To God to be glory, there is still force majeure in this nation to build the church.
I stopped at still unfinished Église de la Madeleine, by the Parisians plainly called La Madeleine. It is a large building in a Greek pagan architecture with neither towers nor the cross, and with triangle pediment supported by Corinthian columns, reminiscent of an exchange or museum rather than a church.
Domeyko's religious and very traditional upbringing did not allow him to accept the modern look of the Christian church. He also criticised the name of the church, Magdalene the sinner he called. Nevertheless, he then appreciates that a church had actually been built during increasingly faithless times in France: To God to be glory, there is still force majeure in this nation to build the church.
HÔTEL DES INVALIDES
On his second day Domeyko visited Hôtel des Invalides. What does look as worthy as Hotel des Invalides at that time in Paris? Where soldiers from the most warlike era still live!
Domeyko made an allusion about soldiers who remembered the French Revolution. The building made greater impression on Domeyko than earlier seen Église de la Madaleine. While visiting Hôtel des Invalides he accentuated its religious architectural elements and modest style: Great edifice, distinguished by its simplicity rather than vastness or sophisticated architectural refinement; above gold plated dome raises with the cross...
The site carries rather inappropriate name which in English reads The Residency of Invalids. Today we would probably have another more positive name e.g. a Residency of War Veterans. Nevertheless, in his diaries, Domyeko reported on very good conditions of the establishment; the dresser richly stocked with silver tableware, great order, neatness and order in everything, comfortable flats.
We did not visit Hôtel des Invalides which, these days a home of military museum. Instead I caught an image of the site while passing by in Bus 63 on our way from École des Mines to Palais de Tokyo (to see an exhibition and Tilda Swinton who happened to have her lunch there at the same time as we did).
Through rather scratched window of the bus you may notice golden plated dome, also noted by Domeyko in his diaries.
The colour theme of titles in this blog entry (medium spring green) belong to Route 63 and match the colour used by Paris public transport company RAPT (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens).
Domeyko made an allusion about soldiers who remembered the French Revolution. The building made greater impression on Domeyko than earlier seen Église de la Madaleine. While visiting Hôtel des Invalides he accentuated its religious architectural elements and modest style: Great edifice, distinguished by its simplicity rather than vastness or sophisticated architectural refinement; above gold plated dome raises with the cross...
The site carries rather inappropriate name which in English reads The Residency of Invalids. Today we would probably have another more positive name e.g. a Residency of War Veterans. Nevertheless, in his diaries, Domyeko reported on very good conditions of the establishment; the dresser richly stocked with silver tableware, great order, neatness and order in everything, comfortable flats.
We did not visit Hôtel des Invalides which, these days a home of military museum. Instead I caught an image of the site while passing by in Bus 63 on our way from École des Mines to Palais de Tokyo (to see an exhibition and Tilda Swinton who happened to have her lunch there at the same time as we did).
Through rather scratched window of the bus you may notice golden plated dome, also noted by Domeyko in his diaries.
The colour theme of titles in this blog entry (medium spring green) belong to Route 63 and match the colour used by Paris public transport company RAPT (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens).
ÉCOLE DES MINES
A path to further education had emerged during Domeyko’s first year in Paris. A graduate from prestigious school in former Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth, University of Vilnius could not resist an encounter with the world’s famous Sorbonne where he attended lectures of famous professors.
It is quite a thing to hear the inventor himself, talking about his invention, particularly when his name is attached to the charm of fame and immortal life.
Not all the lectures appeared to be equally interesting. Some prominent scientists lacked the skill to pass on the knowledge to their students:
...You can be a great and famous surveyor as Hachaette, a creator of science, but still unfit to teach.
Domeyko also attended courses and lectures at other prestigious academias: Jardin des Plantes, Conservatoire National des Arts et Metiers and Collage de France. At École des Mines, a part of the College de France, Domeyko’s attention was drawn to geological studies. Lectures of professor of geology Élie de Beaumont were particularly of interest to him. Upon his advise Domeyko enrolled as a full time student at École des Mines. Consequently, this became his doors to the passage to Chile.
It is quite a thing to hear the inventor himself, talking about his invention, particularly when his name is attached to the charm of fame and immortal life.
Not all the lectures appeared to be equally interesting. Some prominent scientists lacked the skill to pass on the knowledge to their students:
...You can be a great and famous surveyor as Hachaette, a creator of science, but still unfit to teach.
Domeyko also attended courses and lectures at other prestigious academias: Jardin des Plantes, Conservatoire National des Arts et Metiers and Collage de France. At École des Mines, a part of the College de France, Domeyko’s attention was drawn to geological studies. Lectures of professor of geology Élie de Beaumont were particularly of interest to him. Upon his advise Domeyko enrolled as a full time student at École des Mines. Consequently, this became his doors to the passage to Chile.
We visited École des Mines, presently known as Mines ParisTech in search of minerals donated by Domeyko from Chile. Minerals were sent through his students, friends or any other entrusted personas who sailed across Atlantic to Europe. Mineral collections which consisted of Chilean species including detailed descriptions were bounded for École des Mines. Unlike, Polish museums who treasure Domeyko’s mineral species as hisrotical collection, at École de Mines minerals are segregated by chemical composition. This makes more difficult to identify at one go minerals donated by Domeyko. The custodian at Mineralogy Museum of Mines ParisTech where one of the world's greatest collections of various minerals are housed, managed to run a list of all minerals with the name of Ignacio Domeyko. The search resulted in 143 entries. We were guided by the list to different draws where selected minerals sent by Domeyko between 1864 and 1884.
One of the minerals we were shown was Emplecite described by Domeyko as Tannenite. Handwritten note from Domeyko indicated the location of the mineral i.e. Cerro Blanco in Copiapó , in the north of Chile. The mineral has a visible compound of Chalcopyrite, a metallic blister of bright golden colour, which is known to be used to trick people into thinking it is gold.
The other mineral found was an ore of Bismuth known as Bismuthine, which is usually extracted as a by product of smelting other metals like copper and known for high heat resistance. Bismuth brought by Domeyko was found in natural form on Cerro Tazna near Bolivian town of Potosí, famous for silver extraction. It was one of the fruits of frequent expeditions made by Domeyko in the Andes during his 50 year-stay in Chile.
The other mineral found was an ore of Bismuth known as Bismuthine, which is usually extracted as a by product of smelting other metals like copper and known for high heat resistance. Bismuth brought by Domeyko was found in natural form on Cerro Tazna near Bolivian town of Potosí, famous for silver extraction. It was one of the fruits of frequent expeditions made by Domeyko in the Andes during his 50 year-stay in Chile.
Musée de Minerologie is part of Mines Paris Tech. The museum which is located at Boulevard Saint Michel, next to Jardin du Luxembourg and in relative proximity of Sorbonne and other famous colleges in France.
BIBLIOTEQUE POLONAISE
We went to Biblioteque Polonaise in Paris in search for maps that Domeyko had worked on while living in exile in Paris. Domeyko became fascinated by maps, and he himself produced many of his travels in Chile. He is also an author of three innovative maps of Poland in the production of which he used the innovative colour coding which he had learnt in École de Mines in Paris: His teacher, professor Élie de Beaumont was one of the leading authors of geological map of France. It was perhaps from him Domeyko had learnt about mapping. This must had inspired him to produce three maps of Poland: Hydrographic Map, Geological Map and Landscape & Economic Map.
Undertaking of making these maps was a very ambitious piece of work at the time. Domeyko was in possession of limited materials that he could use to accurately link particularly geographical sites. Although he was well travelled, he could not had seen all the places and some aspects of his maps had to be rounded or absent. For that reason, his maps can be seen as artistic objects.
Scientific and historical aspects of these maps were well studied by Polish geographer, Aniela Chałubińska. In 1960s she visited Biblioteque Polonaise and helped catalogue these maps. We followed her to Biblioteque Polonaise in search of Domeyko's maps.
Undertaking of making these maps was a very ambitious piece of work at the time. Domeyko was in possession of limited materials that he could use to accurately link particularly geographical sites. Although he was well travelled, he could not had seen all the places and some aspects of his maps had to be rounded or absent. For that reason, his maps can be seen as artistic objects.
Scientific and historical aspects of these maps were well studied by Polish geographer, Aniela Chałubińska. In 1960s she visited Biblioteque Polonaise and helped catalogue these maps. We followed her to Biblioteque Polonaise in search of Domeyko's maps.
Biblioteque Polonaise was founded in 1838. If Domeyko had not left for Chile in January 1838, he would have been a frequent guest of this Polish Library in Paris.
Its noble location on Île de St. Luis and impressive XVII century building is the legacy of Polish emigrants. Most of them were participants of November Uprising like Domeyko himself who wished to sustain Polish culture in the city which held the largest Polish emigration in the world during these uncertain times is their homeland.
Its noble location on Île de St. Luis and impressive XVII century building is the legacy of Polish emigrants. Most of them were participants of November Uprising like Domeyko himself who wished to sustain Polish culture in the city which held the largest Polish emigration in the world during these uncertain times is their homeland.
The visit in Biblioteque Polonaise made me a proud Polish emigrant myself. Having worked in the US on a student visa and now living in London, I can share with him some experiences:
One of the most notable and worth to recall impressions of that time I had was when I first checked into a prefecture of Paris as an emigrant. They introduced me to a great hall, designed exclusively for immigrants, i.e. immigration of various peoples.
There were around on the walls high cabinets with inscriptions: "émigration polonaise", "émigration espagnole", "émigration italienne," "émigres allemands". Glancing at these inscriptions seemed that here in France the whole of Europe emigrated.
Biblioteque Polonaise is the kind of place where anyone who has been living in a country away from their own would find a feeling of pride and sentiment. This institution holds many music, film and literature based events. Apart from the reading room, there is interesting museum of Fredrick Chopin which can be visited by the public.
One of the most notable and worth to recall impressions of that time I had was when I first checked into a prefecture of Paris as an emigrant. They introduced me to a great hall, designed exclusively for immigrants, i.e. immigration of various peoples.
There were around on the walls high cabinets with inscriptions: "émigration polonaise", "émigration espagnole", "émigration italienne," "émigres allemands". Glancing at these inscriptions seemed that here in France the whole of Europe emigrated.
Biblioteque Polonaise is the kind of place where anyone who has been living in a country away from their own would find a feeling of pride and sentiment. This institution holds many music, film and literature based events. Apart from the reading room, there is interesting museum of Fredrick Chopin which can be visited by the public.